Hello everybody,

So vacationing is over. We wrapped up our travels in Harar, the ancient Muslim center of the empire, then went to Gonder, the empire's capital right before it changed to Addis, and Bahir Dar, a coastal town on Lake Tana. From Bahir Dar we went to a few island monasteries which were basically small monasteries in the middle of tiny islands on a lake that looked all too much like Lake Murray and made me miss home, tubing, and good fried seafood. We also spent some time at the Blue Nile Falls, the source of the Nile just off of Lake Tana. It was breathtaking and disappointing at the same time. It's sad because they have damned the river feeding the falls and they are about a third of their original size. Regardless, it was amazing.

ISP (Independent Study Project, for those of you who aren't keeping up...) time starts next week after we take our exams and I'm so ready. I've never done research like this that I care a lot about and I'm itching to get my feet wet. Hopefully I'll plan my first visit to a Prosperity Gospel service for this Sunday and start interviewing people after that. That's right, interviewing. Like real people do.

So Halloween is today, and while we threw around a few options, our group sadly never got dressed up. It's sad, not celebrating meaningless holidays, but we're already planning something special for Thanksgiving, even if it is just going to the completely random fancy restaurant near our guest houses, Chop House. Literally, it's a house, but the food is better than most houses I've ever been in so I'm fine with it.

Miss you all and would love to get emails from you.

Peace,

Brandon

Greetings family and friends!

I'm so sorry about the delayed blogging. Internet in Ethiopia is very finicky and I'm emailing this to a friend to update the blog. So don't think I haven't been trying!

I am currently in beautiful, rustic, tree-filled, mountainous Lalibela, home of the famous rock-hewn churches from a long freaking time ago. A few days ago I was pulled up a mountain by a rope and an unusually large number of Ethiopian monks into the sacred Debra Damo monastery. It was absolutely breathtaking, an entire town on top of a mountain. I'll post pictures when I can, but for now you'll have to take my word that it's indescribable. Is that cool?

I was also within shouting distance of the building in St. Mary of Zion Cathedral where the ark of the covenant is supposably held. We couldn't help but hum the Indianan Jones theme and we may have offended a priest or two...but not much.

I've missed home a lot more than I thought I would and it, well, surprised me. I've been saved by my iPod every night because I can listen to songs that take me back to fields under stars, rock quarries and rope swings, and conversations on back porches. Despite all this beauty I'm seeing and all that I'm experiencing I miss my friends and my home. That's not to say I'm not enjoying my time here. I can say without doubt that this trip has been the best few months of my life so far, partly because it has shown me how much of my life at home I love and cherish.

Well, the sunset over these gorgeous mountains is calling my name. Again, no promises as to my next post but know that I'm keeping all of you in my mind as I wander through this ancient land.

Peace,
Brandon

Light in the Dark Continent

I hope that title pisses you off.
My impression of Africa over the past few years has been of a place to be pitied. Poor Africa. The oppressed, the marginalized, the hungry. What I've found in Ethiopia is a prideful people, with a rich history and a promising future. The other day I was sitting in my host family's house, watching my brother, Addis, watch the BBC World news. They were talking about Africa, Darfur specifically, and they showed pictures of starving people, people with their limbs chopped off and flies on their faces. His face looked pained. He's a recent graduate of Addis Ababa University with a degree in history, and he knows very well that that is not the whole story of Africa. As we celebrated the new millenium on his porch, we talked about a lot of things. Girls, dirty jokes, music, and movies, but most of all we talked about Americans' perception of Africa. He told me that I had a duty to change that perception. I think Addis might be a little confused about the extent of my influence in the states. But his request is one that has stuck with me for the past week or so. So I'm doing my best over the next few months to learn about the proud Ethiopians. To share their story so perhaps one day Addis might see a western news story about the ancient Ethiopian coffee ceremony, or the beautiful dances of the Oromo, or the ancient history found in the city of Harar.

I'm not denying that there is suffering and pain in Africa. Addis himself said that Ethiopians appreciate help from America and the West. But I think they appreciate help, not pity. We, after all, could be blamed for the majority of their problems. So please, all of you. My friends that inspire me daily with your zeal to help the impoverished nations of the world. Ask yourself what it is about that culture which you love. Find something to learn from them. Learn to appreciate the innate beauty in their way of life. Don't help to make yourself feel good. Don't help so your friends will praise you. Learn first. Appreciate first. Then you just might find yourself helping while you're being helped. You might stumble upon a conversation that can change perceptions, good and bad. Or, you just might learn. But that in itself is a beautiful thing.

I'm not a shining light in the dark continent. I'm a humble learner, an awkward sojourner in a country that has plenty to teach me. That's what I'm meant to do for now.

Cluttered room, chirping crickets, strange feelings

I'm now sitting in my bedroom of about thirteen years pondering my trip which will begin in two days and seven hours. I'm not pondering the important things, mind you. I think I'm prepared. I have my traveler's checks, gifts for my host family, brand new duffle bag thing, shots and pills. That should be enough I suppose. What my mind is wondering about is how much will change while I'm gone, and most importantly how much I will change. My family and I went to this ice cream shop around my house run by this Italian guy who apparently has "African Fever" (it took a while to get past translation issues and agree on that term, FYI), and he kept telling me over and over "you will be changed, for the good mind you, but you will be changed." Right now I have no idea what this will mean for me, but I feel like it's something I've been led to for a long time. For about two years the dark mysterious continent has loomed in the back of my mind, a fairytale, somewhere I would love to go, something I would love to explore. And here it is. Two days away. Jeez, I can't really think through it all right now, but the bottom line is this is actually happening, I'm actually going, and, honestly, I think I'm actually prepared for what is in store for me over the next few months. That's really the only preparation that matters.

right?